A day of fun at the Canterbury Agricultural and Pastoral Show

The Canterbury Agricultural and Pastoral Show, more commonly known as the A&P show or just simply the Show, is a big deal. It is the largest in the country and has been running for 150 years, in fact it’s such a big deal that all Cantabrians get a day off due to it!

Although Show Day is usually a Friday in November, the actual event runs for three consecutive days. It so happened to coincide with my visit to Christchuch earlier this month. Now I must admit having been born in Shanghai and grown up in Auckland I’m not really a farming girl. In fact I know next to nothing on anything agricultural or pastoral. But I sure didn’t let that put me off.

The Show was filled with stalls and exhibitions, from combine harvesters to Combi vans, Swanndri to Shiraz. There were competitions, concerts, and carnival rides to entertain the young ones, or the young at heart. The Trade Pavilion showcases many top grade livestock, all 7000 of them, and yes some people actually came here to conduct business. I watched a wool-handling competition, some show jumping, a wood sawing competition (why don’t they just use electric saws I quipped intelligently), and the steam engine exhibition which was definitely the highlight of the day.

With not even a whiff of pretension, the atmosphere amongst revellers was festive. From white-haired octogenarians to children in pushchairs everyone seemed to be having helluva good time. High on candyfloss and donuts, I was completely enthralled by the day despite being utterly removed from the rural life the show represents. It was an interesting experience and buckets of fun (to my surprise), and I strongly recommend it for the bistro going, flat-white drinking, hybrid-car driving city folks. You know who you are.

A steam tractor at the A&P Show

Top ten things to do in Southern Africa

As I settle into the rhythm of regular life with my Southern African adventure only a distant memory, I have composed a highlights list to relive the great times I had in that exotic and wild continent.

Thamalakane River at sunset

View of Cape Town from Table Mountain

Cape Dutch architecture in Stellenbosch

Mokoro in the Okavango Delta

Quad biking in Makgadikgadi Pans

Game viewing at Kwara Camp

Chapman’s Peak Drive

Pom Pom Camp in Okavango Delta

Victoria Falls

10. The Thamalakane River is the aorta of Maun, nourishing land and supporting life, without which the village would simply not exist. The waterway is busy with traffic on Sundays as families and friends take their boats out to make the most of the sun, but I especially like the River when it is illuminated by moonlight, the night sky serenely reflected by the still waters.

9. Table Mountain is one of the most famous landmarks in Cape Town, for good reasons too. The view of the city from the top of the mountain is incredible!

8. Stellenbosch is the second oldest but perhaps the most famous wine region near Cape Town. The oak lined streets, the quintessential Cape Dutch architecture, the surrounding hills and wineries all contribute to Stellenbosch’s romantic atmosphere. And if you’re a glut like me you will not be disappointed by its wines or its food.

7. Mokoro is the traditional dugout canoe that Batswana use to fish. It allows you to really enjoy the tranquillity and beauty of the delta as you weave between reeds and glide stealthily past waterlilies and their mirror images.

6. Makgadikgadi Pans is a remnant of a super lake and is today one of the largest saltpans in the world. The unique landscape with its vast whiteness as far as the eye can see stirs up feelings of eeriness and loneliness. Lying under the star-studded night sky surrounded by nothingness, the isolation is complete, but as day breaks the glowing fireball lights up the horizon bringing warmth and the hopes of a new day.

5. Botswana is reputed to be one of the best places in the world for game viewing. The country has successfully sustained a strong conservation programme, weaving tourists’ influences, both positive and negative, into the picture. As a result it is an extremely satisfactory to watch animals, barely metres away, thriving in their natural habitats all the while knowing that they are well protected.

4. The drive around Cape Peninsula in South Africa is spectacular. The highway hugs the ocean and it curves and swerves, steeps and stoops past quaint seaside towns and remarkable landmarks.

3. Although the luxurious camping in well-furbished “tents” first originated in Tanzania, Botswana has certainly taken the trend to new heights. There are over 100 camps in the Okavango Delta offering guests the experience of the wilderness with all the comforts and exclusivity of a five-star resort. Both camps I went to were wonderful but Kwara edges out over Pom Pom due to its abundance of game.

2. Victoria Falls is known by the locals as Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning the smoke that thunders, and it’s easy to see why. You hear its rumbles well before seeing the cascades of water tumbling down the cliff or the rainbows created by the mists it sprays. One of the seven natural wonders of the world it is truly an amazing sight. Getting to experience the sheer drop up close and personal by a dip in the Devil’s Pool is an extra adrenalin-boosted bonus.

1. Meeting the local people is a great way to find out what’s happening around town, what’s hot and what’s not. With a burgeoning African middle class many share the same values and aspirations as us in the West, and most are friendly and eager to help. When our car got stuck in the sands, twice, we were promptly rescued by locals nearby. Living in Maun the expatriates are also an essential part of the community. People from different walks of life are bonded here in Africa by their love of wilderness and freedom, using ingenuity to build their lives from scratch. That community spirit is something I will sorely miss.

Driving around the Cape Peninsula

Vines at Groot Constantia

View from Groot Constantia

Muizenberg, a popular surf beach

The bohemian seaside town of Kalk Bay

African Penguins at Boulder’s Beach

Waddling out to sea

Cape Point

View of Cape of Good Hope from Cape Point

Cape of Good Hope

Scarborough

Lighthouse at Kommetjie

Breathtaking views on the drive around the Cape Peninsula

Chapman’s Peak Drive offers spectacular views

Sunset over the Atlantic Ocean

One of the most beautiful drives in the world

Driving into Hout Bay on Chapman’s Peak Drive

Hout Bay is the final destination of Chapman’s Peak Drive

Enjoying a cool drink in Hout Bay

I live in New Zealand where we’re not exactly short of beaches or bays, so believe me when I say that the drive around Cape Peninsula in South Africa is one of the most spectacular in the world.

From city centre head South East on the N2 towards Constantia, the oldest wine region in South Africa. Then drive to the iconic Muizenberg where brightly coloured sheds sit looking out towards the ocean. It’s a popular destination for surfers and families. Continue along the gorgeous False Bay to Kalk Bay, a quaint seaside town with hints of bohemia. Local fisherman still dock their small vessels in Kalk Bay, and they make a nice contrast to the boutique cafes and shops lining the streets.

You’ll pass Fish Hoek when you continue to drive along the highway and you’ll come to Simon’s Town, just beyond which lies a colony of the rare African penguins at Boulder’s Beach. They from a part of the Table Mountain National Park and for a small fee you can get up close and personal with the cute little creatures, although be careful for they do bite. It makes for a lovely stroll, or if it’s really hot you can swim in the beach with the locals.

The next destination, and the climax of the trip, is Cape Point. Often wrongly thought of as the meeting point between the Atlantic and the Indian Ocean (that is actually at Cape Agulhas), it offers breathtaking views of the untamed ocean, as far as the eye can see. A funicular usually takes visitors to the top but when we were there it was not operating so we had to hike up to the lighthouse, which is quite a steep climb. On the road back make sure to stop at Cape of Good Hope, and if you’re lucky you’ll see ostriches, zebras, and antelopes just hanging out casually by the side of the road.

From there you can continue onwards towards the beachside town of Scarborough and then to Kommetjie. From Kommetjie head towards Chapman’s Peak, where arguably the most beautiful drive in the world awaits. Chapman’s Peak Drive hugs the Atlantic Ocean, and if you time it right you can watch the dazzling sun slowly dip into the sparkling ocean on your left. There are plenty of lookouts and you’ll definitely want to stop at them for great photo opportunities. Why not bring some bubbly too? Note that Chapman’s Peak Drive is a toll road but it is well worth it. The Drive descends into Hout Bay, a little town nestled in the sheltered bay. There are a couple of restaurants and bars right on the beach and the views are just postcard perfect.

From Hout Bay you’re on the home stretch. To return to the town centre you’ll drive past the trendy Camps Bay where palm trees line the beach and neon lights beam brightly. Touristy it may be Camps Bay has a vibrant atmosphere as restaurants and bars pump out lively music, and punters chatter away enthusiastically. Stop to grab a bite or a drink before heading home.

One of the most beautiful drives in the world

Cape Town – Departure Day

With a sluggish start to the day, hampered by a heavy hangover, I eventually ventured out into daylight to experience Cape Town’s town centre.

First stop: Food market at The Old Biscuit Mill. Located in the more industrial neighbourhood of Woodstock The Old Biscuit Mill has been transformed into a chic shopping gallery with plenty of trendy eateries including the highly rated The Test Kitchen. Every Saturday morning locals and tourists alike cram into the Mill for some gourmet goodies: pomegranate smoothies, rich velvety cakes, freshly baked pastries, wood fired pizzas, handmade ice creams, industrial strength coffees and more. It’s a foodie’s paradise. In addition to the delectable morsels on offer there are stalls for fresh flowers, clothes, jewellery, cosmetics and more. It is no doubt the best market I’ve been to, with fantastic products and a real jovial atmosphere.

Second stop: Bo Kaap. The colourful Malay neighbourhood is home to descendants from slaves imported by the Dutch from Africa, Indonesia, Java Malaysia and other foreign places. You can find mosques around almost every corner, and we witnessed what we thought was a Dhabihah. The brightly coloured buildings reminded me of Caminito in Buenos Aires, although not as touristy.

Third stop: Long Street. It’s funny how different places appear in daylight. The brightness of the day has transformed Long Street from the dingy, rowdy avenue into a chilled place with hints of bohemia. Boutique shops instead of bars, family and friends instead of party revellers.  I think I prefer this version better.

Fourth stop: The Company Gardens, located in the heart of Cape Town and bordering on the Parliament, it is intricately intertwined with the history and spirit of the city. It has been a public space since 1848 and has been enjoyed by many countless visitors since then. It was certainly teeming with life when we strolled through the grassy lawns between the rows of roses and the tall willowy trees.

Last stop: Signal Hill. Signal Hill offers a good view of Robben Island, Cape Town Stadium, and a close up view of Table Mountain. We had a picnic of strawberry and vanilla ice cream on top of the hill before going to the airport. It gave us an opportunity to have a last lingering glimpse of the beautiful city, and reflect on the wonderful time we have spent there.

I have to admit Cape Town is probably the second most beautiful place I have been to, after Rio de Janeiro. There is so much to do and see (and eat) we have barely scratched the surface. I can’t wait to return someday.

Cape Town – Day Three

With my growing interest in wine it would be a crime to travel all the way to Cape Town and not visit any of the wineries. Most of South Africa’s wine production is concentrated in the Western Cape with Stellenbosch being the most famous and Constantia being the oldest. So in our little rental car we headed out West on the N2 for the hills.

With hundreds of wineries to choose from the map of Stellenbosch makes for some dizzying reading, even before any alcohol has passed my lips! With our very limited time in Stellenbosch I had carefully chosen three wineries to visit: Meerlust, Thelema, and Kanokop, all reputed for their quality wines. Meerlust was my favourite winery for its down-to-Earth tasting approach and its range of rich, opulent wines, not least its signature wine Rubicon.

Between the tastings we visited a Cheetah Sanctuary and petted an adult cheetah. The Sanctuary is a non-profit organisation with the goal to protect wild cheetahs through education. Money raised from the sanctuary goes towards raising specially trained cattle dogs for farmers so that they’re able to protect their herds from predation without resorting to shooting. Although the aim of the organisation is worthy I still cannot help but feel sympathy for the cheetahs held within the enclosures, never to be released to experience the wild.

Stellenbosch is actually quite a large region, but its town centre is entirely accessible by walking. Being one of the oldest towns in South Africa it has retained much of its Cape Dutch architecture from the 19^th century. Although there isn’t a lot to do it’s a cute place to squander a couple of hours wandering the oak-lined streets and browsing the numerous boutique cafés, shops, and churches dotted all over the place.

The highlight of my day at Stellenbosch was the six-course meal with complementary wine flight at Jordan.  Our table overlooked a dam that reflected the mountains in the distance, and was surrounded by vines. It was a culinary delight and a really lovely experience. What a way to celebrate the last evening of our odyssey!

Cape Town – Day Two

We had scheduled to take the cable car up Table Mountain today but when we drove up the cliff the dense clouds persuaded us otherwise. Instead we headed for Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, voted one of the best botanical gardens in the world. It’s easy to see why. Not only does it contain the unique flora of the Cape Kingdom, its setting is breathtakingly picturesque with the Table Mountain as its backdrop.

We serendipitously arrived in Kirstenbosch in time for its daily guided tour at 10:00am. Our guide was friendly, talkative, and extremely informative. It made for a pleasant and educational stroll around the gardens.

In the afternoon the cloud over Table Mountain dissipated somewhat so we waited in queue for our turn up the aerial cableway to visit perhaps the most famous landmark in Cape Town. The view of the city from Table Mountain is pretty incredible. And it’s amazing how fast the weather can change at that altitude. One minute it’s clear blue skies, the next will have you running away from dark grey clouds. We enjoyed a late lunch at the Table Mountain Café overlooking the peaks of the Twelve Apostles poking through the clouds before descending back to Earth.

After a self-imposed upgrade from hostel to four-star hotel (long story) we set off to Long Street for dinner. Long Street, like Camps Bay, is another area famous for its restaurants and bars, although I found it extremely touristy, and somewhat dingy. We shared a grilled platter of crocodile, ostrich, springbok, kudu, and venison meat at Mama Africa, one of the institutions of Long Street, and clearly a hit with tourists. The crocodile meat was my favourite and tastes like a cross between chicken and squid.

Music by the marimba band Abakhaya reverberated in my head as I drifted off to sleep after another fulfilling day.

Cape Town – Day One

The bright light streaming into our room woke us up nice and early. So early that we were at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront by 8:00am when life was just beginning to stir and well before any shops were open. A quiet stroll around the waterfront took us to see the Nobel statues, the red Olympian made of Coke caskets, the fancy hotels and even fancier yachts docked in the marina.

An hour later and we were boarding the boat to take us to Robben Island, the infamous island that induced fear in so many ever since its inception as a prison in the late 17^th century by the Dutch settlers. Perhaps better known for the 18 years of imprisonment of Nelson Mandela, it was also at one point a leper colony and a hospital for the mentally and chronically ill.  The island has retained much of its dark and tortuous history, with the climax of the tour being the maximum-security prison where all the political dissenters were held and tortured during Apartheid. Our guide was an ex-political prisoner himself, recounting his own history and stories of what it was like to be isolated inside. A sobering tour, and a stark reminder of the atrocities committed in only recent history.

Back on the mainland just after midday, the waterfront is now bustling with activities. No time to people watch though for we have decided to drive the cape peninsula, starting out East in Constantia and going West in order to catch the sunset over the Atlantic. The drive has a reputation for being one of the most scenic in the world and it didn’t disappoint as we curved and swerved by the ocean, making stops in quaint seaside towns. Cape Point was a particular highlight as you stare out into the infinite ocean facing your own finite existence. The drive concluded with the Chapman’s Peak Drive into Hout Bay, with the glowing sun gradually descending on our left as the sky transformed from light blue into deep indigo. We found a nice waterfront bar in Hout Bay to watch the rest of the sunset.

As darkness covered the Cape we found solace in Camps Bay, the trendy suburb popular with tourists that reminded me of Mission Bay in Auckland. It has numerous restaurants and bars lining the waterfront lit up by colourful bright lights. We picked a seafood restaurant at random and enjoyed a perfectly decent meal of oysters, kingklip, and swordfish. With full stomachs and worn soles we retreated to our hostel satisfied.

A whistlestop tour of Cape Town

I love Cape Town.

I love its majestic cliffs, its long coastlines, its wines, its food, and not least its affordability. Hilly and surrounded by sea its lush greenery is in stark contrast to Maun. A paradise in the midst of a conflicted and unstable country, Cape Town is a haven for tourists offering plenty of luxury accommodation and trendy eateries.

The start of the last leg of our Southern African journey was delayed due to thunderstorms in both Maun and Johannesburg. We ended up arriving in Cape Town at 9:30pm, picked up our little rental car, drove to the hostel, and fell asleep straight away for we knew we had a full couple of days ahead. The next few posts will highlight our stay in Cape Town.

My brief experience of healthcare in a resource limited region

Well I’ve said my thank yous and goodbyes, did my last ward round, took a behind-the-shoulder glimpse of the hospital as I walked out for good. To top it off my final elective report is done and dusted. For those wanting a more in depth perspective, and some interesting cases, click here. For everyone else, please read on.

The most obvious challenge working at Letsholathebe II Memorial Hospital is the lack of resources, human and capital. The hospital is chronically short staffed, at one point seven out of the twenty or so doctors were on leave simultaneously, but amazingly people just carried on with a smile. There are no radiological investigations beyond x-rays and ultrasounds, the lab doesn’t do beta-hCG, troponins or faecal sampling, medicines (including the essential anti-retrovirals for HIV) commonly run out, and blood products are exceptionally difficult to procure.

As a rural district hospital its geographical isolation, being 400 km away from the nearest tertiary hospital in Francistown, compounds matters even further. There are only two ambulances for the district (count yourself lucky if both are operational), and they transfer patients between Maun and Francistown once a week. If you’re not critically ill, in which case you will be transferred by air after completing a mound of paperwork, you must wait until Monday before there is even a chance of being seen by a specialist. In the meantime you can pray that your condition doesn’t deteriorate.

Even though the hospital is very big and fancy, maintenance and planning seems to be somewhat of a problem. There are no toilet paper in any of the restrooms, no soap in the soap dispensers, definitely no paper towels, and barely any hand sanitisers either. The resuscitation room in ED is a nightmare with the sharps bin overflowing, and drugs everywhere with no order or flow. It’s amazing anyone manages to find anything in a hurry. Sometimes the air-conditioning on the wards stop working for no apparent reason, but if you walk over to the administration block it’s always nicely chilled. The hospital was built with the future in mind, and I can understand that, but sometimes I wonder whether it would’ve been more beneficial if the hospital was a bit smaller and a bit less fancy but the maintenance was kept up.

In spite of all this the doctors are kind. They want the best care for their patients so they make do with what they have. Although the outcome is not always positive, it is not for the lack of trying. Without the fancy gizmos and widgets we’ve come to expect in the Western world, you could say medicine here is more real. Relying on the basics of taking a good history and conducting a thorough examination, clinical acumen needs to be especially sharp.

The past two months has been a valuable experience for my personal and professional growth. Next time a blood result is slow to return, instead of moaning about it I will be grateful that our lab is functional at all.

Maun, lasting impressions

It is such a cliché but it feels like yesterday when I touched down in Maun. First glimpses of the dusty roads and the sheds people call home convinced me that Maun was a place people transit through, not settle down in.

However as I got to know the place more intimately it began to grow on me. Although I will never get used to the sweltering heat, or the swirls of dust, or the swarms of mosquitos and other creepy crawlies, there are certainly things I will miss about this atypical African village.

Stay long enough and you’ll discover the pulsing, thriving community. Art exhibitions, movie nights, ballet recitals, plays, and burlesque shows are just some of the events organised while we were in town. Lonely on a Friday night? Head down to the Sports Bar and hang out with the young pilots. Feeling sociable? Catch up with friends over the best food in Maun at Hilary’s café (disclosure: I am slightly biased).  Fancy something more, well, fancy? Thamalakane lodge rarely disappoints offering steaks grilled to perfection. Want to work off that last meal? Join the gym and the numerous classes from ballet to belly dancing, aerobics to yoga. You can find it all right here in town. Fair to say no one is starved of things to do.

Being a smallish town with a prominent expat community, everyone seems to know everyone else on a first name basis. The community is so tight-knit rumours spread like wildfire, but when the going gets tough people unite and support each other. Everyone I’ve met in Maun is here because they want to be. People from all conceivable walks of life, bonded by their passion for wilderness and freedom, congregate in Maun to transform their ideas into businesses, dreams into realities.

To be perfectly honest Maun is not even the eyesore I initially thought it was. If you know where to look that is. By the river it is rather tranquil and picturesque, as the water flows peacefully by while locals fish and chat leisurely. Less than an hour up the Boro River and you’ve reached the Delta. When you’re in a motorboat, or even better on a mokoro, you begin to understand why people have chosen to make Maun home.

As I pack to leave thunderstorms brew in the distance. When I wave my final goodbye the first decent lashing of rain falls, rejuvenating the place and its people, signalling the incoming of the much-anticipated rainy season. I have a feeling I’m going to miss this place.